Trousers and shorts “by the pattern”
In this part of “Stylish geometry” we will give special attention to the most complex subject of wardrobe – trousers, as well as to their “close relatives”: shorts and overalls.
To choose for oneself ideally sitting trousers is not an easy task but at the same time it is very important. Having borrowed from men’s cloakroom trousers, women thought about comfort and the equality of rights with men, but, despite it and as a result, they made this thing to “serve” for women`s beauty. Convenience must not cancel appeal. Complexity of selection of “correct” trousers lies in the fact that they should match various parameters often different from the “standards” on which the trousers are being sewn.
For example, the skirt must take into consideration waist circumference and hip circumference – but also circumference of a leg in different points is important for the trousers.
To recommend everyone to sew trousers individually would be the simplest and most, in principle, right advice.
the choice of the most high-quality and practical (a hardy one) cloth depends on you, all necessary measures are being taken off you – and the trousers sit on you ideally as the second skin, you also choose the version and design.
time expenditures for search of cloth and fittings.
The majority of women prefer to buy finished articles in stores, but not to spend time for their invention and sewing. Anyway, both ones need to pay attention towards the important points without which the trousers, neither bought nor sewn individually, will not adorn you as you would wish that.
- Cloth and durability of trousers
Durability of material, practicality, and a match of its composition with the purposes for which the trousers will be used are the first and very serious criterion of the selection of trousers or cloth for tailoring. In other words, the cloth for trousers must be not only beautiful, but still appropriate and “hardy” because the trousers wear out much faster than other clothes.
The trousers move, are rubbed, crumple, are very often not protected with umbrellas against downpours, as well as by boots from snow. The proportion of 70%/30% where 70% constitute natural materials is being counted by optimal composition for trousers cloth and 30% (not more!) are artificial, synthetic.
Synthetics is not an absolute evil – it helps a thing neither lose its shape no crumple
Wool is the most valuable material for trousers.
High-quality wool does not crumple by itself (or it fast smoothes) and does not lose appearance (it does not roll). But the things from such wool are very expensive, therefore in a case of inexpensive things it is recommended to secure oneself with a small per cent of synthetics. For snug versions of trousers synthetics – such as elastan- is simply necessary because cloth must draw and repeat curves of your body in movement.
It is also worth not forgetting about density and thickness of material. The plush cloths such as corduroy, velvet, etc., significantly increase volumes of a figure.
- Versions of trousers and types of figures
There are many variants of trousers, which for convenience can be separated into the following groups:
Cigarette trousers (pipes, trousers – straws), leggings, jordpurs (trousers for riding, pantaloons, jockey trousers), slimes, skinny.
trousers – flares, wide trousers, pantaloons (blumersy), hakama, palazzo pants (palazzo pants skirt), pajama trousers.
Trousers in a style of Marlene Dietrich (wide men’s style trousers); trousers of chinosas (Chino, chinosa), trousers with folds, training trousers, beggi (a boyfriend’s trousers).
East and oval trousers
bloomers (harem-trousers, turkish), carrots; peg trousers; afgani trousers (alladin, “Ali Baba”, pegged- leg; saruel pants, harem trousers, fuseau), sharars, churidars, shalwars (salwars, patial trousers).
Bell-shaped trousers: from a thigh, from a knee.
In addition, there are also: dungarees and sport trousers, safari, trousers with foot straps, trousers of cargo, oval trousers, khipstery, and a lot of the others.
For ease of perception, I offer you the table where the suitable types of trousers are proposed to solve the major problems with the bottom:
|A type/features of figure||Necessary adjustment||A version of trousers|
|Broad thighs||Make hips narrower||Trousers slightly cut bell-shaped from hip with an accented bottom of pant legs. Without pockets or other accents on hips.|
|Short legs||Make legs longer||Straight trousers with an overstated waist|
|Plump legs||Make legs thinner||Straight trousers or bell-bottom trousers.
Without patterns and pockets.
Footwear to match the tone of trousers.
|Thin legs||Give volume to legs||Trousers with wide pant legs tapering to the bottom.
Trousers of the east type.
Pockets and active patterns on pant legs
|Narrow thighs||Give volume to hips||The east trousers with volume under the waist and on hips or the contrast pockets or other decorations located in area of hips.|
- Height adjustment with help of trousers
There are other problems with visual appearance, which can be resolved with the help of trousers. It is the problems with height. The major principle for increase of height: to create a silhouette of one color or tone from the bottom to the top. It means both the top and the bottom- trousers and footwear must be in one tonality.
So if you want to enlarge your height – choose straight monochromatic trousers or trousers with a vertical stripe or stripes, as well as the footwear and the top- in the same tone as trousers. If, on the contrary, you want to reduce your height, use the same principle inversely. In other words, we “cut” a silhouette by the horizontal: the top, the bottom (trousers), and the footwear of different colors.
- Accents on trousers
Accents on trousers require very attentive attention. Many women strive to buy or sew “interesting” trousers decorated with all that comes to the head. At the same time, few seriously think about what kind of effect they will achieve by a drawn attire on trousers. As for the accent, the place where it is located is most chief here and only afterwards its personal properties and influence on visual appearance come. The accents are placed on those figure’s places to which the person wishes to draw attention.
Therefore, it must be either the nicest parts of a pattern or places requiring adjustment, which the accents can give. In principle all the accents besides vertical bars work for increase of volumes. One should remember it!
For example, pockets on hips or pant legs will give volume to legs or hips; pockets situated slightly lower than hips or flaps on pant legs will shorten legs, the abrasions or gleam will make legs thicker, the shirs where they are biased will increase their assembly on trousers, et cetera. Vertical bars, folds on pant legs, and vertical lightnings give an opposite effect. On the contrary, they lengthen legs, make them thinner and slenderer. However, one needs to be careful with stripes on sides of trousers. They will decorate the plump girls only in profile. Looking from the front or rear, the stripes clearly draw a border of volumes of figure and only show width and corpulence!
The jeans are the “state within state” in the world of trousers. First, they have their clear purpose, the character, and the style. Second, they have incredible and invincible popularity for their practicality and combination with any other objects of wardrobe and styles. Thirdly, their influence on a figure is very strong and, unfortunately, negative enough in comparison to other types of trousers.
Despite their popularity among women, the classical jeans are a completely non-feminine subject of wardrobe. Both the version and the type of cloth – everything is meant for men`s physical labor. But the main negative effect in a “denim” question is the key important influence on women`s figure: denim is making one look fatter; the pockets in the rear on jeans give extra volume where it is not often necessary. As a rule, the pockets in the rear on jeans are found lower than it is needed and thus shorten legs. The popular understated waist is also fleeing visually shorter. The flared jeans are “contorting” legs. The abrasions and gleam on pants make legs much thicker.
Monochromatic, dark jeans are the most “sparing” type of jeans with straight cut without pockets and accents and with a belt in the waist or slightly higher. But in essence it is much pleasanter to put on similar trousers instead of such “dull” jeans. The main recommendation to women in the question of jeans – wear them only in “no-win” situations or if your hips and legs are longer and thinner than if you would like! In the rest of the cases, other types of trousers from more “benevolent” materials will help you excellently.
- Trousers, shorts, and overalls
The transformed trousers, which became shorter, are to be examined separately. The property of the shorts, breeches, three quarter pants, the Bermuda and any other types of trousers that became shorter is that they are visually shortening legs and reducing height. Only trousers, which became shorter of flesh color, are the exception.
Depending on width of such trousers, they either can show a figure or can make one look fatter.
In both cases, this subject of wardrobe will look good only in a good figure because it is showing more than it hides.
Overalls are the opposition in its properties. The trousers with the top increase height and at a certain variety lengthen legs. Overalls are very useful, from the point of view of appearance, but still few decide to wear them. For those ones who is embarrassed or frightened by appearance of overalls, one can offer trousers on the braces, which are also enlarging height, but trousers are left with trousers and the possibility of the choice of anything else for the top remains.